


There are also mid-century modern touches like plush banquettes lit by individual tiny gold-colored table lamps. A neon clock hanging over the kitchen pass runs fifteen minutes early. There are ironic and eye-catching design quirks. All his design hallmarks are here: a bright cramped waiting room precedes entry in to a low-lit capacious dining room, a conceit that makes you feel like you’re walking in to another world. Radio Anago, the new sushi joint from Sodikoff, should also fit this mold.

Like a Warhol soup can or a Jeff Koons balloon dog, they feel like a better or idealized version, a great realization that never was. Sodikoff’s creations, a 1980s Brooklyn pizza-parlor, a 40s supper club, or a rich man’s Jewish deli, feel like the real thing. I didn’t want to eat at Green Street as much as I wanted to weep to relieve my heart of bursting nostalgia. Through the interior design, Sodikoff had conjured a honky-tonk, a backyard BBQ, and even somehow the gymnasium set of the “Smells Like Teen Spirit” video. Rather I’d tweeted it at him, trying to express a combination of slight jealousy (that one person could be so talented) and gratitude (that I had been transported to a very happy place). When I first walked in to Green Street Smoked Meats, I remember telling owner Brendan Sodikoff to fuck off.
